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Profitable Shirt Production

KARL MAYER’s New Expert-System for the Multi-Matic®, GOM, etc.

The Multi-Matic® produces sample warps and medium-length warps, and guarantees top quality as well as maximum efficiency – when used for the right application. With its technical configuration, this automatic short-, medium- and sample-warping machine operates optimally when used to bridge the gap between the GOM 24 and the Nov-O-Matic. For example, when processing 8,000 cotton yarns having a length of 406 m and a count of Nm 80 to produce a warp beam having a width of 1.800 m, the Multi-Matic® 128 can increase productivity by 332% compared to the GOM 24.

The GOM automatic sectional warping machine operates at its best when processing a small number of yarns and short warp lengths. It therefore operates at the lower limit of the spectrum of uses of the Multi-Matic®. When processing articles having longer warp lengths and more bobbins, the NOM automatic sectional warping machine is increasingly more efficient. KARL MAYER has developed the special Expert-System for evaluating which sectional warping machine is the most suitable for the particular job in hand. The example are shown below.

Expert-System for evaluating jobs : Calculating the economic viability of jobs using this new tool is based on the performance features of the Multi-Matic®. These include its speed of 800 m/min for both warping and leasing, and of up to 150 m/min when beaming. Colour changing also takes place at an ubraked speed of 800 m/min. The machine is available in versions having 64 or 128 running yarns, operates at a maximum working width of 2.200 mm and takes off yarn from standard creels – thus offering a specific performance profile. The following example of the calculations produced by the Expert-System shows the results of evaluating the speed, costs and operators’ time involved in processing a shirting product on the Multi-Matic® 64 and a Multi-Matic® 128 compared to processing it on the GOM.

The parameters of the warp were as follows :

  • Warp length – 406 m
  • Total number of yarns – 6,974
  • Width – 1.800 mm
  • Yarn count – Nm 83/1
  • Material – 100% cotton
  • Number of different colours – 10.

The performance results produced by the Expert-System show that the production rate of the Multi-Matic® is three times higher than that of the GOM when processing the same article. At the same time, the labour and amortisation costs of this new machine in KARL MAYER’s range of sectional warping machines are lower. There is basically no difference in the setting-up times, but the machine running time of the GOM is considerably higher. This is particularly true when patterning broad coloured stripes. The comparison of the ratio of the number of warp beams produced to the production length clearly shows that the Multi-Matic® is the most productive system for processing the article mentioned above.

The Multi-Matic® is mainly used for processing high-fashion wool, silk and filament yarns for ladies’ outerwear. More than 300 KARL MAYER sample warping machines and automatic sectional warping machines have already proved to be a great success on the market.

The Multi-Matic® is mainly used for processing high-fashion wool, silk and filament yarns for ladies’ outerwear. More than 300 KARL MAYER sample warping machines and automatic sectional warping machines have already proved to be a great success on the market.

The advantages of the Multi-Matic® : The Multi-Matic® is as flexible as a sample warping machine, but the possibility of working in parallel when loading packages onto a fixed creel, or of using a parallel creel means that the creel setting-up times are reduced, which is advantageous when processing short- and medium-length production warps. Another advantage is that the warping process runs automatically. As well as rational production, the Multi-Matic® also enables labour and yarn material costs to be saved, as well as storage costs – because of the compact yarn management system. The Multi-Matic® is also extremely accurate. When producing the warp, the yarns are laid by means of yarn-laying devices onto the feed belts of the rotating warping drum at an accuracy of 5/100 mm. This system, which is controlled by linear motors, therefore operates about four times more accurately than other well-known sample warping machines. The high-precision yarn-laying devices are also used for leasing of the dividing cords. A new feature is that the yarn feed belt operates at different speeds and can be adapted to different yarn densities and counts and various pattern requirements. Yarns which do not run on the warping drum because they are not needed for the pattern are taken off by the patented central cord and held under tension. The result of this well-thought-out yarn feed arrangement on the Multi-Matic® is that the yarns are placed accurately on the warping drum and the colour can be changed correctly, even at maximum operating speed.

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